Seeing the Sights: The Birthday Trip, London

April 8th, 2015:
The bus pulls into Victoria Coach Station at 6:30am. Like most accommodation establishments, I can't check into my hostel until 2pm. I have all my belongings with me. What will I do?

Cambridge
After a bit o' thinking and trip planning, I bought a bus ticket to Cambridge. When in London, I exclusively use the Tube or walk. This trip reminded me why I'd decided not to use the Overground, as it took us an hour just to get to the city outskirts, having woven through traffic. But we did make it to Cambridge. In short, there really isn't a bad angle of this city, aided by the fact that the sun was out and the birds were chirping. I had some homework to get done, and I figured what better or more motivational place to do it than Cambridge? I'd find a cafe, grab a snack and some tea, and get stuff done. (Spoiler alert: This did not happen. Well, not the homework part.)

One of the things I have not missed being in the less tourist-hot Eastern Europe is the people who try to sell you things on street corners. Of course, they are placed in the most touristy areas, which means you cannot help but pass so many of them. Pretty much all of those I passed were working for groups that take you around the city in the punts, something I'd completely forgotten was a thing in Cambridge. While it sounded like a cool idea, the shear number of people who asked me made me not want to give them the satisfaction, so I didn't. I didn't have a lot of time in the city, so I got to see more in-land than from the river.

River Cam

Do you see what I see? That's right, this restaurant has root beer!

Because who doesn't draw Daleks on the side of
their antique university buildings?

King's College

I had crêpes for lunch, since the restaurant was in a less packed portion of town and they had the "free wifi" sticker in the window. Unfortunately, you still needed a password for it, and with the people that kept walking through the door and only one guy working behind the counter (taking orders, making drinks and crêpes) I wasn't up for bugging him, so flipped through a Cambridge magazine instead. And that's why I didn't get any homework done. That and the fact that the buses I was on didn't have wifi. (Estonia, I miss you!)

"There is no love sincerer than the love of food."
-George Bernard Shaw

In search of a postcard, I ended up in a bookstore. (All right, so if I'm honest the postcard might have been an afterthought once I was already inside, but whatever. It was a beautiful big bookstore. So shhhh.) A book I really want to read came out on St. Patrick's Day and I haven't seen it in the stores in Tartu yet, so I popped into several stores on this trip to look at it. I didn't have space to buy it on this trip, and I would have had to ship it home anyway, but I just like to look at it. I've got a tab open on my computer to buy the Kindle edition, but I'm trying to wait until I get home. Either way, I loved browsing through the Waterstones in Cambridge. There was an author signing books (not a person nor novel of which I'd heard). When I go to bookstores, I often take pictures of titles to remind me to find them cheaper/more convenient elsewhere, so I acquired many new photos this afternoon. Probably too soon, it was time to head back to the bus stop to return to London.

Pearce Park

I was on the bus back when my phone started vibrating. Since I've left home, there is really only one person that calls me, but because it's my birthday, I knew exactly who was on the other end.

Unfortunately, with bus and traffic noises and international phone charges, it wasn't the best time for a call, so after my gramma sang "Happy Birthday" I told her I'd call her back later.

I checked into my 18-bed hostel room which looked a bit ridiculous. Each bed had curtains and most people had used clothing or towels to fill the gap between them. Essentially, 18 adults and built forts. It was awesome, if a bit cramped. Luckily, having slept most of my life in a twin bed, sharing a small space with all my gear wasn't that big a deal.

My bunk with my drying towel

After checking in I headed to the London Hard Rock, a place I have yet to visit in my previous trips to London.

They found space for me at the bar in front of the kitchens. The server asked where the party was, but since it was just me he and the other staff amused me. The asked question and talked to me, all in a non-creepy way. They were all really friendly and it was actually awesome. It made the London Hard Rock my favourite that I've visited. It's also the smallest, which surprised me for being such a big city. They have the free birthday dessert, but I sprung for the Oreo cheesecake instead with my strawberry-mango piña colada. 

I learned it's really hard to take pictures of yourself while
you're eating.

After getting back to the hostel and setting myself up in the kitchen, away from all of my sleeping dorm-mates, I called my gramma back over the noises of the hostel. Hostels, of course, keep slightly different hours, so there were still plenty of people up, but we managed. Then I crawled into my pod and slipped into Dreamland.




April 9th, 2015: Oxford
After finally figuring out my plan for the day, I took the Oxford Tube to Oxford (duh!).

If it surprises anyone that my first stop was part of the Bodlein Library... do I know you?
The round library wasn't one open to the public, but man was it pretty. It's sits across from the university church, so that was my next stop.
Now, I've seen a lot of churches since coming to Europe. You can't walk 15 feet without seeing a new one in most places. I can see 3 (nearly 4) from my dorm window and Estonia's not a very religious country. But the university cathedral had some cool features. First off, part of the ceiling is painted to have stars on it. Secondly, they have a display showing how the church has changed since it was built. I found this really interesting because it shows not only the change in religious observance and style over the centuries but also the change in the size of the city. A balcony was added to hold undergraduates (but has since been removed) and organ was added, the altar and pulpit moved around, etc. University church, not only pretty, but educational.

     Like many churches, I'm always surprised by the floor, which to be made entirely out of graves. It's one thing to have people buried in the walls of the church, though England's churches especially seem to have walls made out of graves as well, but I kinda feel bad about stepping on these people. There's just no way around them!

Anyway, after checking out the church, I stumbled upon the (non-disappointing) Bridge of Sighs. I tried to recreate the perspective I remembered from Midsomer Murders, but didn't quite managed it. I remembered it being higher off the ground (though clearly it isn't) and with more trees/greenery on the other side. Either way, I found it!

     I was trying to find the "Marks of Genius" exhibit the Bodleian was putting on, but I don't think I ever did. I stumbled into a MASSIVE bookstore and found the bookstores edition of it (or at least I hope this wasn't the entire thing) but that was pretty cool as well. They had some third edition Shakespeares, and the one that had me nerding out the most, first edition Jane Austens. For a mere $20,000 I could have been the proud owner of a first edition, three-volume Emma, or for $16,000 a second edition Sense & Sensibility. They had the first edition, three-volume bind-up of my two favourite Austen's Northanger Abbey & Persuasion for $30,000 if I remember correctly. 

In a corner at the top of the stairs leaving the exhibit was a massive pile of Harry Potter books. 

...uh, guys?

Other than the university buildings and the library, I wasn't sure what else I'd find in Oxford. I looked for the Eagle & Child pub where the Tolkien, C.S. Lewis, and others used to host the Inklings Club. Looking at the map now, seems I walked around it in circles, but I didn't find it while I was there. 

But! That doesn't mean I didn't find cool things! I found this bit of Shakespearean architecture in the middle of a shopping district. Which just looks epic, might I add. 

Krispy Kreme!

When I passed the Krispy Kreme in the area I spun around and bought a Lemon Meringue Pie donut that was fantastic, though there are probably a number of factors that contributed to this: hunger, attitude, elevation of Krispy Kreme to near god-like status, lack of donuts in Tartu, and the best pie flavour ever. Now, I'm a bit disappointed in myself that the thing I ate in Oxford was an American donut, but not so disappointed that I wouldn't do it again. I did buy chocolate from the Bodleian (peach raspberry white chocolate) that was phenomenal, so that makes up for it a bit.

Listening to a tour guide passing as I took this picture, this is one of the most unique colleges in Oxford, since it has no students. All Souls College only has research fellows. But this little bit of the campus you can see is really pretty, much like the rest of Oxford. 

Oxford is a lot cheaper than Cambridge, so I did actually go into one of the buildings here, the Divinity College at the Bodleian, which you'll probably recognize from the picture as it served as a background for several Harry Potter scenes, maybe most notably the Yule Ball dance tutorial. This room, like the church, also had some information posted about what used to take place in the building, though not as extensive as the info in the church.

One of the things I absolutely loved about Oxford is the number of bookshops, and the number of them that were combined with cafes. This one, with the lamps reading "Speak Friend And Enter" is just one of many that I passed. It was like an entire city built out of pieces in my mind palace. Just down the street is Christ Church College which sits on the edge of the centre of town and has this huge, expansive lawn. It's one of those things that boggles my mind. Here's a "bustling" city, narrow, winding streets, and then BAM! Massive grassland with tractors and all. Oxford probably just became my favourite day trip from London. So much Oxford Love. 

AND! It taught me a new word: "Plinth"

After returning to London, I ran to meet up with a Jack the Ripper tour. I tried to go last time I was in London, but it didn't work out. This time, I wandered around the meeting point outside Tower Hill station and didn't see anything. Fifteen minutes after the tour was supposed to start, I give up and head toward the DLR to go back to the hostel. I pass a group of people who turn out to be exactly who I was looking for and sneakily joined the tour. I found it interesting that the government has built over all but one of the places were Jack the Ripper's victims were found. This was done after World War II supposedly in an attempt to curb that kind of behaviour, but since the murders occured in the late 1880s and WWII didn't end until 1945, that seems like quite the delay. If nothing else, I learned some things I hadn't heard in the other videos and readings I've done on Jack the Ripper, so that was cool. And, of course, maybe the Masons did it. 

Seeing the Sights: The Birthday Trip, Edinburgh

April 6th, 2015:

All right, so my first full day in Edinburgh started with a walking tour. During the break in the tour I found myself a salted caramel milkshake from this milk shoppe in Grassmarket. Turns out, it's the number one rated restaurant in Edinburgh. I just randomly choose the best. 

Notable moment:

-When discussing Harry Potter, there were two people who had never seen nor read them so our guide starts by a) calling them losers, and b) summarizing with "There's a wizard boy who goes to wizard school." I found that amusing. Boiled down, that's the premise. Not that I'm sure the entire world hadn't figured out that much without knowing anything else. 

From there, I had time until my "ghost tour" so I wandered on my own. I visited St. Giles' Cathedral (which is not technically a Cathedral) where they have this super modern-looking organ.

Epically modern organ in St. Giles'

Mrs. Claus dress in the vintage shop in Grassmarket

I ended up at a vintage shop that was like something out of a movie or a dream. I could have spent so much time and money in there. So. Much.

Inside of the Writers' Museum

The Writers' Museum is just off the Royal Mile and it's free, so of course it went on my "To-Do" list. They have a gorgeous maroon spiral staircase that leads through all four? floors. The lowest level is all Robert Lewis Stevenson. Robert Burns has a large section to himself, of course. The walls are all painted this fantastic shade of green that I apparently captured zero pictures of. All the paint in this museum was amazingly rich in colour; gorgeous! They had bits of poetry cast over the loudspeakers in the different sections. The top floor had a display on the printing press and a discussion between a master printer and his apprentice about the book they were printing, what went into it, how the press was changing the world, relations between Edinburgh and London printing houses, etc. Overall, very cool.

Elephant House, where JKR wrote Harry Potter

When it hit 6:45p I made my way to the spot where the ghost tour was meeting up. It probably wasn't the best tour out there, more history than ghosts/legends, but that was still cool. Just a bit different than what I'd figured from advertisements. But it was free, so you get what you pay for.

Hard Rock Edinburgh: Check!

Post-tour it was still early enough that I hit up a couple more of the spots on my "to-do" list that were in a different party of the city from where I was staying (which is why I hadn't been there before). First stop, of course, was the Edinburgh Hard Rock Cafe. Which just so happens to be on the same street as...

Grand Lodge of Scotland

The Grand Lodge of Scotland! This building was big. Not as big as I was expecting, for some reason, but still really big. I toured a bit of the Grand Lodge of England during my trip in August, and I keep wondering if I'd just arrive at these places earlier in the day (i.e. before 9pm when I seem to be visiting) I might be able to check out the interior. I mean, I doubt they'd let me into a Lodge room. Luckily, the outsides are pretty impressive as well.

A ridiculously large Hollister. This picture
does not do justice to how completely
massive this thing was. I do not understand.

Between the Hard Rock and the Lodge is this massive Hollister. It's ridiculously huge for what it is. My mind immediately went to a "condemning capitalism and materialism" place. Especially since the facade of the Hollister, with it's bay windows and columns, doesn't at all match with the rest of the building. It doesn't have to, I guess, but it's not like the building it's in is unappealing!

I headed up the street, trying to find some of the buildings I'd seen across the way from the Royal Mile. The darkness did not make this any easier, though I do carry a flashlight. I walked up Calton Hill and found a road diverging near a wood, and I, I took the darker one closer to the city lights. I didn't actually make it very far when I turned around and picked the other road (which is unfortunate, because I walked this road back and I was almost at the end).
It passed several monuments before coming upon a grassy field. Voices led me to a few benches where I plopped down and stared out over the city, which might be more gorgeous at night than it is during the day. It was incredible. I have a recording of me complaining how lame my camera is for not being able to capture the awesome. Alas. I sat up there for quite a while before moving on to explore more of Calton Hill and find my way down. I came down next to the building I'd been looking for, this big old Roman-esque, column-fronted building. My tour guide that evening said that it was a high school until the 1960s and has since been vacant. Which is super sad, because it's beautiful! I'd love to go to school there...

After a long day, I flopped into bed.

April 7th, 2015: 

I started by wasting time until I had to descend all the stairs to check out of my hostel. Moving my luggage into a locker, I hit the town. I think it was the first place on the list, but it seems the first place I have pictures of is the National Museum. I wasn't here long, however. It's a poor idea to go into somewhere cool when you're hungry. I was hoping to see the Game Masters exhibit, but the tickets for it sell out first thing, so that didn't happen. Much of the museum looks, of course, like every other museum. The building's architecture is different, but there are the stuffed animals, the busts, etc. The coolest thing about this one was the machines exhibit. Some of them you could put your hand over a panel and watch the machine do whatever it was designed to; wheels spinning, lights flashing, etc.

I'm the only person in the classic section of the museum. The place
was pretty packed, but not this corridor. 

Wandering through what might have been the art section or maybe the world cultures section, I found this set of paintings entitled "Raven vs. Pontiac" which initially hits me as very SEAK. Of course, I read the artist bio and find he's from Juneau!

"Born in... Juneau, Alaska"

Raven vs. Pontiac

Infamous "Irn Bru" tastes like fizzy bubble gum

From here I had lunch in Grassmarket at a little pie shoppe, that was really good (and included haggis). I spent more time than I'd care to admit picking up gifts I'd passed by during my wanderings the previous two days. There was one thing in particular I remembered seeing, but couldn't remember where I'd seen it. When I finally found it again (after a couple of hours of walking in and out of shops around the Old Town looking for this one item) I found it in a shop I'd walked into and out of several times. Ugh.
      Around dinner time I went looking for haggis, neeps, and tatties. But because it was dinner time, so was everyone else. After wandering through street after street of packed pubs (and closed restaurants; Edinburgh closes at 5p everybody) I ended up *sigh* at Subway. The cookies were great, the food was good (at least it's something I can't get in Tartu), but it wasn't haggis. Ah, well.

Since I was missing an Estonian test, I figured gaining some test-luck
the way the UoE students do can't hurt. (Hume Statue)

     I picked up my luggage and made my way to the bus station. I was hoping that a nine hour bus ride on a Tuesday evening wouldn't be packed, but it was pretty packed. The bus was so full they brought in a second bus that was going to take a longer route. Everyone was so focused on the first bus that I just slid on the second one. The time comes for us to leave and (apart from couples traveling together) there's one person for each set of two seats. Fantastic. The bus starts pulling away and stops, and two buddies get on. Of course, of ALL the open seats he had to pass to get to the back of the bus, he chooses the seat next to me. Great. Just great. Either way, we're on our way to London.

I'm a bit sad that I didn't have enough time or energy to climb Arthur's Seat, but I'll just have to save that for my next trip to Edinburgh.

Ad for a pizza company.
I found it both insulting and motivational.

Plaid shoes, tights, dress, purse.
I would totally wear this. 

Seeing the Sights: The Birthday Trip, Dublin & Edinburgh

April 4th, 2015: My tour guide yesterday suggested a trip to Howth (the tour from their company is about 6 hours long), and seeing as I had no plans, I figured why not. I'd get to see a bit more of Ireland, and more than just Dublin city centre. Explanation for all the Spaniards: It's Holy Week, so they travel with their time off. This means that there were two giant tour groups of Spaniards, and a group of three Americans for the English tour. Having a small group was awesome; we got to know each other and our guide, made a few friends, and when Sinead gave us suggestions of other things to do, she could tailor them a bit to suit us.
     Anyway, after the short train ride from Dublin centre, we made our way to the pier. It's been so long since I've smelled fish! Made me a bit home sick, but I've yet to find ocean that smells like home, which ruins the sensory connection. The Howth pier has these footprints marking where King George IV landed, got of his boat, stood to make a speech, staggered around due to his inebriated state, and proceeded to head immediately back to his boat to sleep it off.

    Above is the gate to the St. Lawrence Castle. The doors on the gate haven't been closed in nearly 500 years. Grace O'Malley came to visit the St. Lawrence family but was denied entrance because they were at dinner. Not used to being told "no", she kidnapped the St. Lawrence heir and held him until she was seen, where she struck a bargain with the head of the family to return young St. Lawrence, provided the gate was never closed and an extra place always be set at dinner in case of unexpected guests. They agreed and both traditions are kept today.

     Here is the entrance to the St. Lawrence Castle, and as we passed a couple members of the St. Lawrence family came out on to the porch to let the dog out. Many portions of the castle, as well as the furniture and paintings with in them, haven't been moved since the castle was moved uphill in the 17th century.

 Heading up Muck Rock, we passed the spot in "Ulysses" by James Joyce were the proposal takes place. I learned that the entire book takes place in a single day, July (June?) 23rd. Huh.

View overlooking Sutton & Dublin

 After lunch at the pub we headed 'round the cliff walk filled with heather. Why did I always think heather was purple? Does it smell like coconut to anyone else? Pictured in the background is the Old Bailey lighthouse.

Wales... somewhere that-a-way

Thirty years ago, the Dublin Zoo's wallaby population had grown out of control, breeding like rabbits as dem wallabies were. So they were trying to find somewhere to put them. They ended up on this island beyond Ireland's Eye. No one lives there, though apparently there is one house. One house and a ton of wallabies. 

 This house has been placed in a state of "dibs" by our tour guide. The wall that runs along the property exterior is the wall from the original St. Lawrence castle built in the... 12th century? We also passed W.B. Yeats house from 1880-1883. Much of the day was spent in the sun wandering the Howth area, which is how I ended up with a sunburn. Anyway, we returned to Dublin centre and my new friends and I parted ways. I headed for a bookstore, and managed to finally find a copy of Harry Potter in Irish. Apparently, only the first was ever translated, and it never made it out of hard back. Either way, I have one! 

Pretty good hot chocolate, but I didn't find it outstanding.

     From there I headed to this chocolate shop chain that apparently has some of the best hot chocolate in the world. Depending on what you order you also receive a chocolate sample, so at the suggestion of the guy behind the counter I tried the white chocolate praline. It was fanastic, and that (combined with my favourite Estonian chocolates) made it finally dawn on me that I really like pralines. The holiday tomorrow means that I won't spend all the money on chocolate...

 There were still a couple of things to do on my list, so I set off in search of a shop I'd asked my guide about. Unfortunately, it was closed, so I'll have to try again tomorrow. On my way back to the hostel I picked up Atlantic Hake fish & chips from Beshoff Bros. with salt, vinegar, tartar sauce, and lemon. Salt & vinegar is not a combo in Estonia, and there are moments I desperately miss salt & vinegar chips.
     Both one of the girls on my tour and our guide suggested "Once," a movie/Broadway play about a  Dubliner musician, so I turned that on while I ate. All I can say is "meh," though I do find it interesting that neither of the main characters ever receives a name.
     Post-dinner, I was off to Tesco to find some sunscreen/lotion, since I'd left my stick in Tartu, thinking I wouldn't need it. However, the containers were bigger than I could take on the plane and crazy expensive so... that was a no go. It did, however, mean I was in Temple Bar. Night life had definitely picked up from alcohol-less Good Friday night.


From there I just wandered the darkened streets of Dublin. Some Easter-related services (I assume) was going on in the courtyard of Christ Church Cathedral. To me, it looked awfully cultish...

And, of course, once a Masonic youth, always a Masonic youth. I headed for the Grand Lodge of Ireland, conveniently located adjacent the National Library (which is flippin' gorgeous) and the National Archaeology museum (which I wanted to visit, but opens at the same time I need to be at the airport tomorrow). It sits amid completely normal houses/buildings. It looks like there are apartments on either side of this tall stone structure, emblazoned with the square and compass on the top. 

     Since, at home, the cornerstone of our new Masonic Temple was laid today, I feel this visit was pretty kismet.

Little island off the coast of Ireland

April 5th, 2015: Hostel checkout was at 10am, per usual, so I waited until then to check out, that way I could have charged electronics for the day, unsure when I would next have access to an outlet. Then the search began for souvenirs with names on them. I'd received several suggestions of places to start, and began. Because of the holiday, most of them didn't open until noon, something I had forgotten, and instead spent two hours walking around in circles. I had the nagging feeling that there was something I wanted to do/see that opened at noon, but couldn't remember what it was and never did. I picked up some gelato along the way and came out with a new flavour high up in my "favourites" list. Unfortunately, it's only made by that company. :( It was a vanilla (?) with hazelnuts, caramel, and white chocolate. At least, those were some of the flavours I could ID.

Crowd outside the barricade at the
Easter Rising celebration

I ate my ice cream in St. Stephens Green, since there are only a few places with public benches. This is where we came across this man and his pigeons. He had a giant shopping bag full of bird seed and would give out handfuls to whomever wanted to help feed the birds. He was attempting to get a girl to overcome her fear of birds, but she was not having any of that. Kids were all pretty excited.
The search continued but to no avail, and eventually I had to go catch my shuttle to the airport. Dublin airport is pretty nice, since I only saw it in the dark last time. I ate my Easter hot cross buns in the food court and read until it was time for my Visa check and trip through security.


The flight is pretty short between Dublin and Edinburgh. (The concerning part was the kid behind me while we were boarding who turned to tell his mother he was "having a queue poo.") And the bus system into the city is pretty intuitive. Unlike many of the other journeys I've taken from airports to city centres, the distance between Edinburgh and the airport is residential. Lots of little cute houses that I would totally live in as willingly as I would live in a gorgeous mansion. The age old adorable vs. expansive.
     As soon as I got off the bus, I was greeted by a bagpipe. Along the way in search of said piper, I saw an add for chili cheese dogs... we may be getting one of those in the next couple of days.
    I checked into my hostel (8 flights of stairs between me and the front door), dropped my bag & swapped shoes. Weather said it was likely to rain in Dublin to I brought boots, and then received a sunburn while I was there. It's much easier to just wear them than to pack my big winter boots into my backpack on travel days. Post-shoe swap, I repacked my purse and explored the Royal Mile, seeing both ends before returning to the hostel.

Arthur's Seat. Hopefully, I'll make the trek to the top before I leave.
This photo didn't look as dark when I took it...

Holyrood Palace

As I meandered, I followed little streets as well, and ended up walking through a cemetery. It was too dark to read much of what was carved into the headstones, but they were beautiful. Conveniently, the cemetery is directly in front of the US embassy, which I wouldn't have noticed if a tour hadn't been walking past and pointed it out.

Edinburgh Castle

THERE IS SO MUCH TARTAN! I hadn't fully grasped that this would be the case when I planned this trip. This tartan girl is going to have to use all her thrifty willpower to avoid leaving Edinburgh broke. Suitcases, shoes, dresses, skirts, scarves, purses, hats... *breathe, breathe*.
     I made it back to the hostel and grabbed my computer to write this up and play catch-up with everything I've missed. I even have some homework that should be done, but that's just not going to happen tonight. The wifi is only accessible in the communal portions of the building, so that's how I ended up in the bar with my diet Pepsi.

Aaaaaand as I'm writing this I just saw my first bar fight. The exciting international life. Followed immediately by a Bohemian Rhapsody sing-a-long by those of us left in the bar.

I have a bit of a plan for tomorrow, but we'll see where the day takes us. Hopefully, it'll include haggis.